Praying Mantis Care: A Complete Guide from Egg to Adult
Hello there, mantis friend. Have you ever held a tiny egg case and imagined the miniature hunters sleeping inside?
Raising a praying mantis from egg to adult is a step-by-step journey through five distinct life stages, each requiring specific care for feeding, housing, and humidity.
It’s a delicate process that changes dramatically as your mantis grows, from a fragile nymph to a magnificent adult.
- We’ll cover how to incubate your ootheca safely.
- You’ll learn the special care needed for tiny hatchling nymphs.
- We’ll guide you through proper feeding and housing for each molt.
- You’ll understand the signs of a healthy, thriving adult mantis.
Starting with the Egg Case: Incubation and Hatching
We begin with the ootheca, that sturdy foam-like case where your mantis eggs rest. Handle it with care, as rough movements can damage the delicate embryos inside. Proper care for the praying mantis egg cases is crucial for successful hatching.
Safely Collecting and Storing the Ootheca
Gently lift the ootheca from its surface using a soft tool or your fingers if needed. Place it in a small container with a secure lid to prevent drying out or mold.
- Use a clean, dry container like a plastic deli cup with tiny air holes.
- Store it in a cool, shaded spot away from direct sunlight or heat sources.
- Check weekly for any signs of dehydration or unwanted pests.
Incubating Mantis Eggs with Proper Conditions
Maintain a steady temperature between 20-25°C and humidity around 60-70%. A consistent environment mimics natural spring warmth, encouraging healthy development.
Lightly mist the area around the ootheca every few days to keep humidity stable. Avoid soaking the case itself to prevent rot.
Signs Your Egg Case Is Ready to Hatch
Watch for subtle changes as hatching nears. The ootheca may darken slightly and develop tiny pinprick holes where nymphs will emerge.
- Small, wriggling movements might be visible through the case.
- A soft, crinkling sound can sometimes be heard as nymphs prepare to exit.
- Hatching often occurs in the early morning when humidity is higher.
Setting Up a Temporary Enclosure for Hatching
Prepare a small, ventilated container with fine mesh to house the hatching nymphs. Add thin twigs or sticks for climbing, giving them safe perches right after birth.
- Choose a clear plastic container with a secure, breathable lid.
- Line the bottom with a damp paper towel to boost humidity.
- Position the ootheca upright on a branch, allowing easy nymph dispersal.
Welcoming New Nymphs: First Days and Feeding
Those first hours after hatching are a flurry of tiny legs and curious movements. Keep their space simple and secure to reduce stress and prevent escapes.
Housing and Protecting Tiny Nymphs
Use a small enclosure with very fine mesh or netting to stop nymphs from slipping out. Avoid overcrowding by separating them early to minimise cannibalism risks.
- Individual deli cups work well for housing single nymphs safely.
- Include soft artificial leaves or twigs for hiding and molting spots.
- Place enclosures in a quiet area away from drafts or sudden temperature shifts.
Feeding Schedules and Suitable Live Prey
Offer food within 24 hours of hatching, starting with flightless fruit flies. Nymphs need frequent, small meals to support their rapid growth and energy needs.
Feed every one to two days, ensuring prey is no larger than the nymph’s head. Dust flies with calcium powder occasionally for extra nutrition.
Misting Routines for Delicate Nymphs
Lightly mist the enclosure once or twice daily to maintain humidity around 70-80%. Aim for fine droplets on leaves and sides, not directly on the nymphs themselves.
Use room-temperature water to avoid shocking their sensitive systems. Watch for condensation as a guide-too much can lead to mold.
Handling Tips for Skittish Young Mantises
Move slowly and let the nymph step onto your hand or a soft brush voluntarily. Limit handling to brief sessions to build trust without causing stress.
- Approach from the front so they can see you coming.
- Support their body gently, avoiding any pinching or squeezing.
- Handle over a soft surface in case they jump or fall.
Nymph Growth and Molting: Key Development Stages

Watching your mantis nymph grow is a quiet marvel. Each molt is a delicate dance, a moment where your small green friend literally steps out of its old skin. Recognizing the subtle shifts in behavior before a molt is your first step in providing gentle, supportive care.
Recognizing Pre-Molt Behaviors and Creating a Safe Molting Space
A day or two before a molt, your mantis will tell you everything you need to know. Their abdomen often swells, and they become still, refusing food entirely. My Ghost Mantis, Luna, would find a high spot and remain there, a misty-brown statue in her terrarium. This fasting period is completely normal and a clear signal that the big change is near.
To create a safe molting space, focus on two things: something to hang from and enough humidity.
- Ensure the enclosure has plenty of vertical climbing space, like twigs or a mesh lid.
- Gently mist the enclosure once or twice a day to raise humidity, which softens the old exoskeleton.
- Remove any live prey that could bother or injure the vulnerable mantis.
- Double-check that the temperature is stable, avoiding any cold drafts or sudden heat.
Step-by-Step Support During the Molting Process
The molting process itself is a breathtaking, tense few hours. Do not touch or disturb your mantis during this time. Your role is that of a quiet observer.
- The mantis finds its hanging spot and secures a firm grip, often hanging upside down.
- You’ll see small contractions along its back as the old skin, called the exuvia, begins to split.
- Slowly, very slowly, the mantis will ease itself out, legs first, then body, and finally, the delicate antennae.
- Once free, it will hang limply, allowing its new, soft exoskeleton to expand and harden.
The most critical thing you can do is ensure absolute stillness and privacy; any interruption can be fatal. Moss, my Giant Asian, once molted during a quiet evening, and the only sound was the soft rustle of his old skin falling away.
Post-Molt Care: When to Resume Feeding and Handling
After the molt, your mantis will look brand new, its colors more vibrant. It is incredibly fragile for the next 24-48 hours. Wait at least two full days before offering food, as its new jaws are too soft to tackle prey.
Its first meal should be something small and soft, like a fruit fly or a freshly shed mealworm. Handling should be avoided for at least three to four days to allow its new exoskeleton to fully harden and gain strength. Patience here is the kindest form of care you can offer your recovering insect.
Common Nymph Challenges and How to Address Them
Even with the best care, young mantises can face a few hurdles. Knowing how to respond calmly makes all the difference.
- Stuck Shed: If part of the old skin remains attached, usually on a leg or the tip of the abdomen, increase humidity with warm misting. Do not pull it off. Often, the next molt will fix the issue.
- Falling During Molt: A fall can lead to deformities. This is why a soft substrate like peat moss or coconut fiber at the bottom of the enclosure is so vital-it cushions any accidental falls.
- Refusal to Eat Post-Molt: If your mantis isn’t interested in food after three days, try offering a different, more enticing prey item. Sometimes a small drop of honey on a toothpick can provide a quick energy boost.
- Mismolts: Sometimes, a molt goes wrong, resulting in a permanently crooked limb. A mantis with a mismolt can often still live a full life; it just may need its food offered directly with tweezers.
Setting Up the Perfect Enclosure for Growing Mantises
Creating a comfortable home is your first step toward a thriving mantis. The right enclosure acts like a miniature ecosystem, providing safety, stimulation, and the perfect climate for growth. A naturalistic, safe habitat mirrors their wild setting, helping your praying mantis stay calm and healthy.
Choosing the Right Terrarium Size and Type with Good Ventilation
A mantis needs space to molt and hunt, but not so much that it struggles to find its food. For most species, an enclosure that is at least three times the mantis’s length in height and twice its length in width is perfect. We prefer tall, mesh-sided terrariums or those with generous ventilation panels. Good airflow prevents stagnant, humid air that can encourage mold and make your mantis unwell. My Ghost Mantis, Luna, lives happily in a mesh cube that lets her cling easily and gives her plenty of fresh air.
- Nymphs (Babies): A small deli cup or a 16-ounce mason jar with a mesh lid works wonderfully. It’s easy to monitor them and ensures they can’t lose their prey.
- Juveniles: Upgrade to a small mesh or acrylic terrarium, roughly 15cm x 15cm x 20cm. This gives them room to grow without feeling lost.
- Adults: A standard terrarium of 30cm x 30cm x 30cm or larger suits most adult mantises. Our Giant Asian Mantis, Moss, loves his spacious 30cm tall enclosure for exploring.
Selecting Substrates and Adding Plants or Hiding Spots
The floor of your enclosure helps maintain humidity and makes cleaning simpler. A simple, sterile substrate is your safest bet to avoid introducing pests or mold spores into your mantis’s home. We line the bottom with a thin layer of coconut fiber, peat moss, or even plain paper towels. Avoid soil from your garden, as it can contain harmful chemicals or insects.
Next, think about furniture. Mantises feel more secure when they have places to perch and hide.
- Branches and Twigs: Provide an assortment of thin, clean branches arranged at different angles. This gives your mantis many options for molting, which it must do hanging upside-down.
- Artificial or Live Plants: Silk or plastic plants are easy to clean and add visual appeal. If you use live plants, ensure they are non-toxic and pesticide-free. They can help with humidity but require more maintenance.
- Hiding Spots: A piece of cork bark leaned against the wall or a small, clean seed pod offers a quiet retreat for a shy mantis.
Maintaining Ideal Temperature and Humidity Levels
Getting the climate right is non-negotiable for a healthy mantis. A consistent, species-appropriate temperature is vital for digestion, activity, and successful molting. Most common pet mantises do well at room temperature, between 20°C and 26°C. A small, low-wattage heat mat placed on one side of the enclosure can create a gentle temperature gradient, allowing your mantis to choose its comfort zone.
Humidity is equally important, especially around molting time. We check humidity with a simple, inexpensive hygrometer and adjust it by misting the enclosure with warm water. The goal is not a constant fog, but a light daily misting that creates droplets for your mantis to drink from and temporarily raises the humidity. This is part of setting up the perfect humidity level for your praying mantis enclosure. Keep a stable baseline by checking readings daily and adjusting misting as needed.
- For most species: Aim for 40-60% humidity. Lightly mist once a day.
- Before molting: You might notice your mantis becomes still and refuses food. Increase misting slightly to help soften its old skin.
- After molting: Keep humidity higher for a day or two while its new exoskeleton hardens.
Cleaning Routines to Keep the Environment Healthy
A clean home prevents disease and stress. A simple spot-cleaning routine performed every day or two is far easier than dealing with a major, deep clean later. We use long tweezers to remove leftover food parts, shed skin, and any other waste we can see. This quick task takes just a minute but makes a world of difference.
About once a month, or if you notice any mold or a persistent odor, perform a full clean.
- Gently move your mantis to a secure temporary container.
- Remove and dispose of all substrate and decor.
- Wash the empty enclosure and all decor with warm water and a tiny drop of pet-safe disinfectant or vinegar. Scrub thoroughly.
- Rinse everything extremely well with clean water to remove all traces of cleaning agent.
- Let the enclosure and items air-dry completely before adding new substrate and returning your mantis to its fresh, clean home.
Adult Mantis Care: Feeding and General Maintenance

Transitioning to Larger Feeder Insects
As your mantis matures, its appetite grows, and it needs heartier meals to thrive. We gradually introduce larger insects like crickets or roaches, which provide the protein and energy adults demand. Start by offering one appropriately sized prey item every few days, observing how your mantis handles it. For instance, my Ghost Mantis Luna took to small crickets with ease, her delicate strikes becoming more assured with each feed. Always source feeders from reputable suppliers to avoid pesticides or parasites. If your mantis seems hesitant, try wiggling the insect gently with tweezers to spark its hunting instinct—this mimics natural movement and encourages feeding. This is part of a complete diet feeding guide for mantises. In that guide, we cover prey variety, appropriate sizes, feeding frequency, and safe sourcing to keep your mantis thriving.
Establishing a Consistent Feeding Schedule
Adult mantises benefit from a predictable routine that mirrors their wild feeding patterns. Aim to feed every three to four days, adjusting based on your mantis’s activity level and abdomen fullness. A plump, rounded abdomen means they’re well-fed, while a skinny one signals hunger. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, so watch for lethargy or refusal to eat. In my care, Moss, the Giant Asian Mantis, thrives on this schedule-his vibrant green colour deepens when he’s regularly nourished. Keep a simple journal to track feeds and note any changes in behaviour, helping you fine-tune the rhythm.
How to Tell Genders Apart and Spot Signs of Pregnancy
Distinguishing males from females is straightforward once you know what to look for. Males typically have slimmer abdomens and longer antennae, while females boast broader abdomens and sturdier builds, especially when gravid. A pregnant female’s abdomen swells noticeably, and she may become less active as she prepares to lay an ootheca (egg case). For example, Sprig, my Orchid Mantis, displayed a pearlescent glow and a rounded lower body before egg-laying. Watch for these subtle shifts-they’re your cue to provide extra hydration and a quiet space for her to deposit eggs safely.
Handling and Interaction Tips for Calm, Confident Adults
Handling an adult mantis requires a gentle touch and patience to build trust. Always approach from the front with slow movements, allowing your mantis to see you and step onto your hand voluntarily. Avoid sudden gestures or holding them too high, as falls can cause injury. I’ve found that Moss enjoys short, calm sessions where he explores my fingers, his curious nature shining through. Limit handling to a few minutes at a time, and always wash your hands beforehand to remove any scents that might startle them. This respectful interaction fosters a bond while keeping your mantis stress-free and secure.
Breeding and Lifecycle Completion
Preparing a Breeding Pair and Introducing Them Safely
Select a healthy male and female from the same species, ensuring both have reached subadult or adult stage after their final molt. We always wait until our mantises show steady feeding habits and vibrant colouration, much like Moss, whose emerald hue deepened as he matured. A well-fed mantis is less likely to view its partner as a meal, so offer nutritious prey like crickets or flies a day before introduction.
Choose a neutral, escape-proof space for their first meeting, such as a clean terrarium with plenty of branches. Gently place the male near the female, watching for her body language-a relaxed posture often means she’s receptive, while raised forearms signal stress. Keep a soft paintbrush handy to guide them apart if needed, and never leave them unsupervised during this delicate dance.
- Use a roomy enclosure with vertical climbing surfaces to reduce territorial disputes.
- Maintain warm temperatures around 25-28°C to mimic their natural breeding conditions.
- Observe for the male’s cautious approach, often with slow, deliberate movements.
Steps for Successful Mating and Egg-Laying
Mating can unfold over several hours, with the male carefully mounting the female from behind. You might hear a faint rustle as they connect, a sound we’ve noted with Luna, who remained statue-still throughout the process. Ensure the environment stays humid and quiet to support their natural rhythms, misting lightly if the air feels dry.
After mating, the female will seek a sturdy spot to lay her ootheca, a foam-like egg case that hardens into a protective shell. She’ll curve her abdomen, working methodically to shape the ootheca with a consistency like whipped cream. Provide rough-textured branches or mesh walls for easy attachment, and avoid disturbing her during this focused time.
- Monitor the pair closely; though cannibalism is rare in content mantises, separate them if aggression arises.
- Record the ootheca’s location and appearance for future reference-some species lay multiple cases.
- Keep humidity levels steady at 60-70% to prevent the ootheca from cracking or drying out.
Caring for the Female After She Produces an Ootheca
Post-laying, the female may appear weary and deserve extra TLC. Offer smaller, soft-bodied insects like flightless fruit flies to help her regain strength without overexertion. We’ve seen Sprig perk up after a light misting, sipping water droplets from leaves with delicate precision.
Handle the ootheca minimally; if relocation is necessary, use a gentle tool like a spoon to pry it loose. Store it in a ventilated container with stable warmth, around 22-26°C, and wait patiently for nymphs to emerge in weeks or months. Check on the female daily for signs of recovery, such as resumed hunting or perching comfortably.
- Reduce enclosure disturbances to let her rest-avoid handling or loud noises nearby.
- Maintain consistent feeding schedules, but don’t force food if she refuses it briefly.
- Watch for any unusual lethargy or discoloration, which could hint at underlying health issues.
Understanding Mantis Lifespans and End-of-Life Care
Mantis lifespans vary by species and sex, with females often living 6-12 months and males slightly shorter. Our gentle Ghost Mantis, Luna, graced us for nearly a year, her leaf-like frills softening with age like autumn foliage. In captivity, mantises often live to the species’ average—about 6–12 months for females, shorter for males, as detailed in this article. Luna’s year-long presence reflects that typical timeframe. As they near life’s end, you might notice slower movements and less interest in food, a natural slowing down.
Create a serene space with low perches and easy water access to support their comfort. We keep the enclosure humid and quiet, offering occasional mists and soft music to soothe them through this phase. It’s a tender time, and your calm presence can make all the difference.
- Recognise end-of-life signs: prolonged stillness, inability to grip surfaces, or refusal to eat for days.
- Avoid unnecessary interventions; let them pass peacefully in familiar surroundings.
- Reflect on the joy they brought-each mantis leaves a tiny, green-shaped memory in our hearts.
Questions from Fellow Mantis Friends

What is the most important setup tip for a beginner?
Focus on proper ventilation and height in the enclosure to ensure successful molting. A simple, well-ventilated container with climbing material is more important than a complex setup.
How do I care for baby mantises hatching in the winter?
Maintain stable, warm temperatures using a low-wattage heat mat placed near the enclosure. You will also need to provide a consistent source of small, live food like flightless fruit flies.
Where can I find a PDF care sheet for quick reference?
Many reputable exotic pet websites and dedicated mantis forums offer downloadable PDF care sheets. These documents provide a convenient summary of key information for easy access.
A Gentle Farewell on Your Mantis Journey
From the delicate hatching of nymphs to the steady growth through molts, we’ve shared how to provide a safe, humid home and proper food for each stage. Your careful attention to temperature, feeding schedules, and gentle handling ensures your mantis thrives from its first days to adulthood. For nymphs, temperature and humidity are especially important to support successful molts. We’ll cover the exact ranges they need in the next section.
Remember, keeping a praying mantis is a quiet commitment to observing and respecting a small life. We encourage you to keep learning through watching your mantis’s behaviors and connecting with fellow enthusiasts for ongoing care insights. You may notice behavior changes through life stages as your mantis molts and grows. Observing these changes can deepen your understanding of its needs at each phase.
Further Reading & Sources
- How to Care for a Praying Mantis : 4 Steps – Instructables
- General Mantis Care – Praying mantis care sheet and feeding
- r/mantids on Reddit: Advice on caring for mantises
- Mantis Care Sheet | Mantid Forum – Mantis Pet & Breeding Forum
Rowan Hale is a lifelong insect enthusiast who fell in love with mantises for their calm presence, alien elegance, and surprising personalities. After years of keeping and raising a variety of species, Rowan shares practical tips, creative insights, and real-world experience to help others enjoy the quiet magic of mantis care. From setting up the perfect enclosure to understanding their subtle behaviors, Rowan invites readers into a gentle, curious world where every tiny movement feels like a discovery.
Egg Care
